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vintage may: flap pocket skirt and tutorial

13 May

today is the first day of Vintage May! i’m having fun sewing for myself lately, so i thought i’d kick the series off with a vintage-style skirt that i could make look retro or modern, depending on my mood. it’s a current-day pattern with a twist to add the type of special detail you’d expect to see in vintage clothing…a flap pocket. and i’ve included a little tutorial on how to easily modify any pant/skirt pattern to do this yourself!

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

first, a little about the skirt, which i sewed in Anna Maria Horner’s beautiful “coordinates in saffron” cotton from bolt. i love this print and had been saving it for a special project – this fit the bill nicely. wouldn’t it be so gorgeous in field study linen too? love that stuff.

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

the pattern is simplicity 2226, a basic, inexpensive, easy-to-find pattern which i bought back when Anna did a sewalong! i sewed a size 14 but should’ve taken her advice and sewed a size or two smaller to get more waist cinch. it’s comfy as is, but waaay bigger than my store-bought skirts (i’m usually a 6). the pattern instructions are really well-written though – i’d never sewed a non-indie pattern and i was pleasantly surprised at the clarity of it! i sewed view A without belt loops and added an extra 1″ in length just to be sure it hit me below the knee.

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

so i knew i wanted to make a skirt but didn’t know what era to go with. i googled “20s skirts” and “30s skirts” and “40s skirts” on up…aside from the more flowy, flapper-esque look of the 20s and the more structured look of the 40s, there didn’t seem to be TOO much in terms of everyday-type skirts that would make you say “that skirt is from THIS decade.” i made this skirt to have a ’30s vibe (which to me is more casual than the decades surrounding it and slightly art deco) but people i’ve shown say it has a 50s/60s look…so i don’t know.

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

i guess it’s kind of a “know it when you see it” type deal – styled like i typically dress, it just looks like a normal skirt. styled with red lipstick and vintage silk headscarf with a tucked-in cardigan, it’s a throwback (especially when you stand next to a beauty school door).

flap pocket skirt for vintage mayanyway, onto the pocket tutorial! this is the same method i used for sam’s shorts in moonrise kingdom film petit, and it’s easy but adds a pretty neat detail. the pattern comes with your typical curved front pockets, so this tutorial is to show you how to modify those.

: SUPPLIES :

  • pants/skirt pattern with front pockets
  • point turner / chopstick / knitting needle
  • 1/4 yard (or fat quarter) of contrast pocket lining fabric
  • two buttons
: METHOD :
first, lay out your pattern’s skirt front. see the scooped line for the pocket on the far left? use your ruler to extend the top and side lines to meet at a 90 degree angle. this will become your flap.
flap pocket skirt for vintage may
fold down the corner until it looks like a good proportion to you (in my case it was 6 inches) and mark those spots. add a notch at each mark.
flap pocket skirt for vintage may
overlay the pocket back pattern piece and add notches to match. cut two “backs” from your contrast fabric and two from your main fabric. i ended up trimming the pocket back and lining pieces more to a slightly wider square shape versus the rectangle indicated in the pattern, since i was lining it in a contrast fabric and didn’t want to fold it back on itself as the pattern instructs.
flap pocket skirt for vintage may
sew contrast lining fabric to skirt front with 3/8″ seam between the notches, backstitching at both ends and pivoting at the corner. clip corner and turn flap right side out, pushing to a point with your point turner. clip into the seam allowance at the notches to release the flap so it can fold out of the way as you sew the rest of the skirt. then with the flap folded down and the skirt wrong side up, place pocket back over the lining and sew around the inner two edges (in the photo below i’m folding the fabric out of the way so you can see right/wrong sides, but you’ll want to sew it matching the edges – NOT folded up). finish the inner edges of the pocket via zigzag or serger.

Screen Shot 2013-05-13 at 12.14.57 AM

then working on the right side, baste top of the skirt and side so the pocket stays put as you move on to gathering the front, sewing the side seams, and adding the waistband.

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

continue to sew the skirt as indicated. at the end, sew the button on to keep the flap down and add visual interest. mark 1/2″ from each edge, then sew your buttons between the flap and inside of pocket only (not all the way through the skirt – gotta get your hand in there!).

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

and you’re done!

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

now go hit the town in your new skirt, girl!

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

i never wear a red lip, this was actually my sister in law’s gloss and i felt pretty sassy wearing it…!

flap pocket skirt for vintage may

and a huge thanks to my husband who took these pics and put up with my compulsive overdirection. ;)

vmcinobutton (2)

alright! now you KNOW you want to see Jess’ adorable little gal in a vintage-inspired gingham “romper” over at Craftiness is Not Optional…here’s a sneak peek! she is WAY TOO CUTE.

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back tomorrow with our first guests!

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grape scoop top

2 May

this is the “wearable muslin” for my scoop top, after i graduated from using my husband’s old t-shirts as muslins and cut into “real” fabric.  once i saw that this top worked and i had the fit and construction down, i cut into my Britex tissue knit and took the tutorial photos.  i had posted this one to Rae’s Spring Top Sewalong flickr group but didn’t have time to blog it before it was time for KCW and then time for my two guest posts to go up.

what i’m saying is, sometimes blog post timing is weird.

grape scoop top

anyway, it’s made in a purple rayon jersey from JoAnn, which wasn’t super expensive but is super soft with a really nice drape.  the fabric was just finicky enough that my machine ate it a few times until I pulled out Jess’s tissue paper trick for the hemming, which worked like a charm!  first time a double needle has really worked for me too, so that was fun.

grape scoop top

it has the pocket that i include in my pattern, and i ended up angling the placement in the final version since this seemed a bit crooked.  i also played with the hemline a bit after the shirt was already sewn, so the hem has a bit of a “don’t look too close” situaish going on.  probably not noticeable to anyone but me though.

grape scoop top

it’s really comfy.  probably the comfiest shirt i own.  annnnnd yes i’ve definitely worn it as a pajama top.  i just love it so much!  it’s like something i’d actually buy in a store, you know?  big accomplishment over here, i’m still waaaay too jittery about self-sewing (but trying very hard to get past that, because wearing clothes i’ve made is incredibly rewarding).

grape scoop top

my necklace is from rare bird on etsy – husband actually spotted it on my pinterest board and got it for me!  good man.  thorough.

oh hey, did you see that Anna made a scoop top?!  it looks so awesome!  it’s crazy to me that someone else could make a wearable top from my pattern.  it’s like when i sewed my first skirt for Em and had this irrational fear that it would fall apart at the seams when she wore it.  i just designed this top to fit ME so well, it’s pretty cool to see it fits other gals too!  guess that’s the beauty of knits though, eh?  ;)

i’ve seen a couple other lovely versions popping up on instagram and in comments too, and it makes me so happy you guys are giving it a whirl.  this has been a fun “dip my toe into patternmaking” experience.  i also want to give a huge THANK YOU to Melissa of Melly Sews and Blank Slate Patterns, who got me going on Illustrator – she offers a full class on it which she talks about here, and the first lesson is free!  if you’ve always wanted to learn Illustrator but don’t know where to start, start there.  it’ll blow your mind.

 

scoop top free pattern and tutorial

26 Apr

As a part of my guest blogging gig for Britex Fabrics, they recently sent some of their new knit fabric to try out! I was really excited to see that Britex is now offering knit fabric online, and for this project I picked out a super cool Japanese tissue knit with scribbles all over it. I thought it’d be a great fabric to turn into a simple tee using my favorite J.Crew shirt as a launch point, with plenty of my own modifications to get the perfect fit.

And because I want to share the love of my new favorite shirt all over blogland, I thought I’d offer a FREE PATTERN along with my tutorial today!

scoop top pattern & tutorial

I’m calling it the Scoop Top. It’s a scoop neck women’s t-shirt with a french/dolman sleeve. It’s fitted through the bust but then flares out a bit, giving it a really flattering and comfortable fit. I’m offering this free pattern in a size small/medium (since it’s knit, it’s pretty forgiving, size-wise).

scoop top pattern & tutorial

PATTERN

Download the FREE Scoop Top Pattern

Please note: This pattern is untested (except by me) and it is offered in only one size. It’s also the first time I’ve ever digitized a pattern, so please don’t expect perfection! I’m happy to answer questions about it if you ask nicely. This pattern is for personal use only. I reserve the right to refine, grade it to different sizes, and charge for it it sometime in the future. In the meantime, Go To Patterns’ Casual Lady (affiliate link) has a similar fit in a full range of sizes and proceeds go to a great cause.

Continue reading 

flocking bird silk shirt with sleeve tutorial

28 Jan

My next post as a member of the Britex Fabrics Guest Blogger Team is up today over on the Britex Blog, and I’m sewing with SILK!  This gorgeous navy and ivory flocking bird print was completely irresistible to me, and I was so excited to make a beautiful flowy top out of it for my sister Laura.  I’ve never sewn with silk before so this was quite a challenge – I had a lot of research to do before I started.  The result is completely worth the extra effort I think!

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

I started with one of my favorite adult patterns, the Wiksten Tank.  As I’ve done before, I decided to add three quarter sleeves, which gives the shirt a bit more substance and slightly more formal look, while maintaining the ease of the pattern.

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

Today I’ll show you my method for adding the sleeves.

First of all, if you’re working with silk, here are a few general tips I picked up.  You’ll want to sew with silk or cotton thread, using a microtex sharp needle, so make sure you have those.  Next, you’ll need to reflect all of your pattern pieces so you’re not cutting on the fold, but just a single layer of silk.

When you’re ready to cut, head over to my fellow Britex Guest Blogger Jen from Grainline Studio’s tutorial for cutting silk.  It worked amazingly well!  I cut between two layers of Swedish tracing paper with a rotary cutter and it was a frustration-free experience.

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

Now, to create the sleeve pattern.

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

1.  Lay your pattern on the right side of your tracing paper and trace around the armhole curve

2.  Lay your ruler down at a 90 degree angle to the pattern grain, mark a line as far as you’d like the sleeve (use another shirt of yours for length reference)

3.  This is what your pattern will look like so far

4.  I added a little extra loft to the shoulder curve to give myself room for a puff sleeve and to add a seam allowance.  Draw a slight S to finish the arm curve, then draw a slanted line to the same length as your top line, connecting them with a vertical line (the lighter curve is my original tracing, darker line is my final pattern)

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

If you’ll be cutting silk, trace out your sleeve again with plenty of room to reflect the pattern so it’s just one piece.  If making this out of cotton, you can just use the pattern on the fold.   Cut notches where indicated to guide gathers (on your silk, mark these with chalk).

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

Sew two rows of gathering stitches between your markings, then sew the long sleeve seams together.  I chose to serge each side of the seam allowance and press them open, as I thought french seams might be too bulky.  Set each sleeve in, gathering what’s needed to match the armhole opening and sewing inside the tube.  I then serged the seam allowances together to finish the armhole.

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

Finish the tank per pattern instructions – for the silk, I used a baby hem and navy cotton batiste bias tape to finish the neckline.  You can either choose to hem the sleeve with a baby hem, or a wider one and thread some elastic through to hold it at your elbow.

flocking bird silk shirt (sleeve tutorial)

Enjoy your pretty new silk (or voile, or batiste, or vintage sheet, or rayon) shirt!  Thanks for modeling, Laura!!

Head over to the Britex Blog to see my post and leave some love over there if you’d like, and while you’re there be sure to peruse their sale section.  The drape and beauty of this silk just can’t be beat (it goes on sale Feb 1).

**Britex Fabrics is a sponsor of this blog and graciously provided the fabric for this project.**

essex linen sidekick tote

9 Jan

my buddy Jessica made me an awesome pillow for my birthday, and then her birthday was at the end of December so it was only right that i make her something in return!  i actually considered asking her husband for her measurements and surprising her with a washi dress, but i figured that was just a taaaaad risky.

so i made her a purse instead.

black linen sidekick tote

it’s the Nooodlehead sidekick tote.  Anna is the queen of the amazing bag pattern, and i always love how interesting and unique her designs are (my purse creativity is pretty non-existent).  i’d been wanting to sew it for a long time now, so this was my proverbial kick in the pants.  it’s a really great pattern and the details are perfect!  i made the large size, since Jessica’s got a couple munchkins to haul stuff around for.

black linen sidekick tote

Gail and Anna have both sewn it in a yarn dyed black essex linen, so i just went with what i knew worked for the outside (it’s from Bolt).  plus i know it’s one of Jessica’s favorite fabrics and she’d probably enjoy carrying it around / petting it.  we nerd out about fabric a lot in our friendship.  doesn’t everyone?

black linen sidekick tote

the pocket is bound with the seersucker i’ve used a few times so far, most notably on little red.

black linen sidekick tote

and the lining is sort of another bit of silliness – i always say kona olive goes with everything, and so…i used it, mostly to make Jessica snicker.  but also, it REALLY DOES go with everything.

black linen sidekick tote

the zipper is magenta (a little brighter than reality in this photo) and the interior pocket is an anna maria horner loulouthi print from Jess.

black linen sidekick tote

there’s a good amount of interfacing (i used Pellon SF101 as recommended) giving the sidekick a nice structure.  i definitely tried harder to keep my stitching neat and crisp too, since this would be the first in-person example of my sewing she’d see and i didn’t want her to think i was a total hack face.

black linen sidekick tote

my giant vintage coat collar and i were ready to make off with it / keep it…but i didn’t.  i stuffed it with fat quarters and washi tape magnets and other trinkets and shipped it off to Ohio like a good crafty friend should.

HBD, Jessica!

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